Presumed Knowledge
Presumed Knowledge
Although we start with the basics, and I introduce each new technique with a tutorial, there is a tiny little bit of presumed knowledge that you should check over before you start. Use the time before the Block-of-the-Week begins to ensure that you are up-to-speed. If you have problems, ask the teachable group here or the Facebook group; there are many experienced and knowledgeable quilters working right along-side you!
This covers topics like: rotary cutting, butting seams, sewing a scant ¼" seam, chain piecing, and strip piecing techniques. If you have been quilting for ages, you will already know all this.
Rotary Cutting
Information about the safe use and care of your rotary cutter and mat is available at olfa.com. Follow the links to specific information:
Rotary Blade Safety, Use and Disposal
Consult the instructions for your particular brand of rotary cutter for information about changing the blades.
Just a note on ruler care: make your cuts towards the corner of your rulers (see the arrows in the diagram below). This avoids chipping the corners of your rulers and keeps them sharp and accurate.
The ¼” Seam
All the blocks in the 365 Challenge, my Blocks-of-the-Week programs and patterns use the standard quilter’s scant ¼” seam. This means that seams are sewn one thread’s width less than ¼”, to allow for the fold in the seam.
As the number of seams escalates, the accuracy of your scant ¼” seam will make the difference between a block that finishes the correct size, and one that doesn’t.
I highly recommend using the special ¼” seam foot that comes with your sewing machine, or can be purchased as an accessory. I have found, though, that even using the specialty foot, the seams can diverge from ¼” quite a bit. It’s worth getting to know your particular foot, and exactly where to guide it.
Check your seam:
From scrap quilting fabric, cut two strips 1″ x approximately 6½”. Join them with your seam.
Cut approximately 2″ units from the pair of strips (you might want to look at the next section if you are unsure how to do this). Now join them:
After joining, the width of the unit should be 3½”. Adjust your seam until you can reliably produce the correct seam.
Other notes:
1. Stitch length: choose a stitch length of about 2.2 – 2.5mm. Too tiny and it’s too hard to unpick!
2. There is usually no need to reverse over the beginning and end of a seam (or use a lock-off stitch), as you would in dressmaking. Seams in patchwork are oversewn later, usually perpendicular to the original seam, and then secured with quilting. Also, they don’t have to withstand the rigours of day-to-day washing, and they lie flat, without the stresses of wearing.
However, if a seam is not oversewn, it is a good idea to reverse over it at the beginning and ending: mitred corners, and set in corners are examples. I will always note if you need to reverse over a seam.
Stripping Off
If you have a lot of similar units to produce, it’s often easier to do some of the joining before the cutting! It is a fast technique for repetitive joining, used to quickly piece Four Patches and Nine Patches, or any block with rectangular or square units.
Cut strips of each fabric:
Join them along the long edge with a scant ¼” seam:
Press the seam towards the darkest fabric. Tidy the ends of the pair of strips, so that you are starting with a right angle.
Cut units across the strips:
Butting Seams
To obtain perfectly matched points and corners it is necessary to “butt” seams as you sew over them.
Press the seams together with your fingers, you will actually feel them “lock” together. If you are new to quilting, secure the two units with a pin.
Slow down, and whip the pin out just a stitch before you will sew over it. This way, you’ll avoid shrapnel from broken needles and putting your machine’s timing out.
Sewing in the direction of the arrow will “force” the seams together. The feed-dogs of the sewing machine will hold the bottom layer, and the direction of sewing will drive the top layer up against the “butted” seam.
Chain Piecing
This just means that you insert the next units to be sewn under the presser foot of your sewing machine as soon as a unit already in the machine clears the needle. The photos explain it:
This technique has the following benefits:
* it saves time
* it saves thread
Additionally, there is no need to hold the threads behind the needle taut, as you would when starting a normal seam. Holding the threads taut prevents the fabric being caught in the feed dogs and ‘mangled’.
In fact, whenever you are sewing, especially with tiny pieces, you can use the principle of chain piecing. A good friend uses a piece of ‘waste fabric’ to begin every seam; she butts the ‘waste fabric’ against the seam, sews across the ‘waste fabric’ and directly into the seam.
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